Almost every time I see a new client at work, or meet up with a new client, the one thing I always realize is that things just don't fit right.
When I walk forward through the door and meet you face to face. Every step that I get closer to you… And you put your hand out for that first hand shake…
I shouldn't have to shake your sleeve over your Palm… AND!.. I shouldn't be able to see your whole forearm.
Most of the time guys wear these long sleeves covering there palms and almost every time… That sleeve is stained and wrinkled from being in between your hand and everything that it comes in contact with.
Image below…WAY to long.
And on the other hand.. Guys… I know there's this trend of having everything shorter and tighter .. But that’s not tailored. That's just fit. And it's to small and tight. The only time it should be proper for shorter sleeves is if.. 1.) you have a watch…2.)you wear a few bracelets on your wrist.
Image Below…WAY to short.
I get there is personal preference but to short..is to short and to long is to long.
A great length that I think can help every man Is..a quarter inch to a half of an inch above the break of the wrist. That is the basic of the bases on sleeve length. Traditionally people had everything big and baggy and long.. So there are probably a lot of older more traditional tailors who might suggest longer but don't… Proper tailored sleeve length is a a quarter of an inch to half of an inch above the break of the wrist.. Your shirt should come only a little longer than that landing on the break of your wrist, giving you a nice appropriate amount of cuff to show which is a quart to half of an inch of your shirt cuff that should be showing..
Image below.. Proper sleeve length
I believe this to be the perfect length because from experience I see it to have enough room for bracelets and watches.
Personally I wear them just maybe a a little over a half inch to an inch because I like to have a decent amount of room for my tiger eye bracelet and watch. But I'd say generally most of my jackets sleeve length should be only quarter to a half inch above the break of the wrist.
Guys it's in the details. It's small things like this that appear bigger when they're wrong.
Now you can get this simple alteration done at most dry cleaners and every single tailor shop will offer This alteration and always usually at a cheap price. Unless the tailor shop you go to has a minimum price of X amount of dollars then that's the only reason I would say the alteration would cost more than than probably $20.
Most places should charge around $15-$20 for a basic alteration like this. It's simple for a trained tailor to do. It's something they do every day most likely.
But you should be going to your PERSONAL tailor.. Which you'll see another post down the line as I explain why a personal tailor is very important. But every man and woman should have personal tailor.
Last quick tip.. If your sleeve is prepared properly, I'd suggest doing functional buttonholes, let people know your wearing a well detailed tailored garment.
Now this is the first of many posts to come in this series “TAlORED”. More corrections and proper ways to wear a fitted garment is what I will cover in this series. Stay tuned for more of it and please if you have any questions on how things should fit or how you should wear certain items, send them my way and I'd be more than glad to answer.
Best to you gents,
The Suburban Gent